If Modica could be summed up in three words, they’d be Baroque, chocolate, and churches. This hillside town in southeastern Sicily is a place where elegant baroque facades catch the sunlight, chocolate is still produced the way the Aztecs made it, and every steep staircase seems to lead to another beautiful church (or an even better view). In this guide, I’ll walk you through the best things to do in Modica, from must-see landmarks to quiet corners you might otherwise miss.
Table of Contents
- A brief history of Modica
- Top 11 Things to do in Modica Sicily
- What to eat and where to eat in Modica
- How to get to Modica
- Where to stay in Modica
- Some travel tips to visit Modica
- 5 Best day trips from Modica
A brief history of Modica
Modica’s story stretches back thousands of years—and like much of Sicily, it’s a rich mix of myth, archaeology, and a fair bit of drama. One legend claims the city was founded by Hercules himself, who named it Motia after a Greek woman who helped him recover his stolen cattle. A sweet story, sure, but the real origins go back even further.
The first known settlers were the Siculi, an ancient Italic tribe who lived in the area as early as the 8th century BC, right around the time Greek colonies were popping up across the island. From there, Modica became a kind of living time capsule, shaped by every major Mediterranean power: Romans, Arabs, Normans, Angevins, Aragonese, who all left their mark.
Modica’s golden age came between the 15th and 19th centuries, when it was the seat of one of the most powerful counties in southern Italy. It had political clout, economic strength, and a strategic location. But the Modica we see today was largely rebuilt after the catastrophic earthquake of 1693. Like its neighbors Ragusa and Noto, Modica rose from the rubble in full baroque splendor.
The city gradually grew into two distinct levels: Modica Alta, perched up on the hilltops, and Modica Bassa, stretching out in the valley below. The two parts were connected by a series of dramatic bridges (17 of them to be exact) crossing rivers and ravines, which once earned Modica the nickname “the most unique city in Italy after Venice,” as stated in the early editions of the Treccani Encyclopedia. That landscape changed in 1902, when a devastating flood prompted the city to cover its rivers and create Corso Umberto I, now the main street.
And then there’s the name, which adds a layer of intrigue to the story. Some say it comes from the Phoenician word Mùtika, meaning “dwelling.” Others trace it to Mùrika, or “bare rock,” a nod to the stony ridges the city is carved into.
Top 11 Things to do in Modica Sicily
Before diving into what to see and do in Modica, it helps to get a sense of the city’s layout. Modica is divided into three main areas: Modica Alta, Modica Bassa, and Modica Sorda. The first two make up the city’s historic center. This is where you’ll find the baroque architecture, steep staircases, panoramic views, and most of the main sights. Modica Sorda, on the other hand, is the modern residential area. It’s home to shopping centers, supermarkets, and more contemporary buildings
Now that you know how the city is laid out, let’s explore the best things to do in Modica:
1. Marvel at the Cathedral of San Giorgio Modica
In Modica Alta, the Duomo di San Giorgio is the city’s crown jewel. With its soaring 62-meter facade, curved tiers, and delicate columns, it almost feels like a baroque stage set. It was designed by Rosario Gagliardi, one of the great names of Sicilian baroque architecture.
Legend says the original church was founded by Count Roger of Hauteville, who dedicated it to Saint George after the saint supposedly appeared beside him in battle. Whether or not that’s true, the devotion is hard to miss: the scale, the detail, the artistry—it’s all deeply moving.
Step inside and you’re greeted by soft natural light and rich stucco decoration. Highlights include a magnificent organ with over 3,000 pipes, still played during major religious celebrations, and a polyptych by Bernardino Nigro from the 1500s, the largest of its kind in all of Sicily.
The church is connected to Modica Bassa by a grand staircase of 250 steps, flanked by a lush terraced garden that brings to mind Rome’s Trinità dei Monti.
Tip: For that classic postcard view of the Cathedral rising above the city’s golden stone buildings, make your way to Pizzo Belvedere on Via S. Benedetto da Norcia. It’s Modica’s best panoramic spot!
View from Belvedere Pizzo
2. Stroll down Corso Umberto I
Right through the heart of Modica Bassa runs Corso Umberto I, the city’s elegant main street, lined with baroque facades, balconies overflown with potted plants, and delightful cafés. Here are a few stops worth lingering over:
- Teatro Garibaldi: A 19th-century theater tucked inside what was once a warehouse and noble residence. Inside, red velvet seats and gilded balconies host everything from ballet and opera to contemporary performances. You can check showtimes or book tickets on their official website.
- Palazzo della Cultura: A former convent, this palace now houses Modica’s Civic Museum. Its standout piece is the Ercole di Cafeo, a beautifully sculpted 22-centimeter statuette from the 3rd century BCE, showing Hercules after completing his first labor—a subtle nod to the city’s legendary founding.
- Palazzo Polara: With its graceful Liberty-style details, this building may look familiar to fans of Inspector Montalbano, since a few scenes from the series were filmed right here. Even if you’re not a fan, it’s still worth admiring the elegant facade.
- Palazzo Grimaldi: A fine example of Neo-Renaissance architecture, this palace is home to the Fondazione Giovan Pietro Grimaldi, a small but rich art gallery showcasing works by local Sicilian artists from the 19th century to today.
But Corso Umberto I isn’t just about sightseeing, it’s also where Modicans come to stroll, chat, and enjoy the day. In the evenings, the street fills with the relaxed buzz of the passeggiata, that classic Italian ritual of walking just for the joy of it. Grab a gelato and blend right in.
Tip: Want to explore the city without too much uphill walking? Look out for the Trenino Barocco, a small tourist train that departs near Piazza Matteotti. It’s a fun and easy way to visit the main sights, especially handy on a hot day.
3. Step inside the Cathedral of San Pietro (Italian: Duomo di San Pietro Apostolo)
Yes, another Cathedral. Modica has two, and there’s a bit of friendly rivalry between them. While San Giorgio dominates the skyline of Modica Alta, the Cathedral of San Pietro holds court in Modica Bassa, right along Corso Umberto I. Locals will tell you, half-jokingly, that the tension runs so deep that during the annual procession, when the statue of San Giorgio makes its way past San Pietro… the doors are ceremoniously shut.
Whether or not you believe the gossip, there’s no denying that San Pietro is another masterpiece in its own right. The approach alone is impressive: a grand staircase decorated with twelve life-size statues of the apostles. And then there’s the interior, a feast of stucco work, marble-clad altars, twisted columns, and a blend of painting, sculpture, and gilded ornament.
Tip: The staircase makes for a dramatic entrance, but if you’d rather skip the climb, there’s a side elevator that offers easy access.
4. Visit the birthplace of Salvatore Quasimodo
If you have even a passing interest in Italian literature, add the Museo Casa Natale Salvatore Quasimodo to your list. This is the birthplace of Salvatore Quasimodo, one of Italy’s most celebrated poets: a key figure of the Hermeticism movement and winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1959.
Inside, the space has been carefully curated to offer a glimpse into the poet’s world. You’ll find original manuscripts, photographs, letters, and personal items that help bring his story to life. There’s also a cool multimedia room, where you can hear Quasimodo reading his own poems and watch video footage from his Nobel Prize ceremony.
Fun fact: One of Quasimodo’s most famous poems, Ed è subito sera (And suddenly it’s evening), found an unexpected second life when it was translated into English and used as lyrics by the Italian death metal band Novembre on their album Wish I Could Dream It Again!
5. Visit Castello dei Conti
View of Modica from Castello dei Conti
You’ll spot it long before you reach it—the Castello dei Conti, perched dramatically on a rocky ledge above the city. Getting here means a bit of a climb from Corso Umberto I, but it’s worth the effort. From the top, the view stretches out across Modica’s layered rooftops and winding streets, especially magical when the light turns golden in the late afternoon.
The castle has seen better days, at least structurally. Much of the original medieval building is now in ruins, but the sense of history is still strong. This was once the center of power in Modica, home to the city’s ruling Counts and the occasional royal guest, like King Frederick IV of Aragon. Later, part of the site served as a garrison, and part as a prison. You can still peek into stone cells carved into the rock, and see the deep punishment pits once used for the harshest sentences.
Fun fact: Just below the castle, you’ll come across ancient cave dwellings carved into the hillside. These were early homes used by some of the region’s first inhabitants!
6. Explore more of the “city of a hundred churches”
Modica’s two cathedrals may steal the spotlight, but they’re just the beginning. Known as the “city of a hundred churches,” Modica is full of chapels and sacred spaces tucked into quiet corners, each with its own unique character and story. Here are a few worth seeking out:
Church of Santa Maria di Betlem (Italian: Chiesa Collegiata di Santa Maria di Betlem)
Just off Corso Umberto I, this church blends Renaissance and Neoclassical elements in its elegant facade. Inside, the Cappella Palatina is a stunning late Gothic chapel, a masterpiece of stonework, elegant and unexpected. Don’t miss the terracotta nativity scene created by Caltagirone artisans. At the entrance, look for a faded line on the wall marking the height of the 1902 flood.
Church of San Nicolò (Italian: Chiesa Rupestre di San Nicolò Inferiore)
Discovered only in the 1980s, this tiny rupestrian church dates back to the 11th century and still preserves incredible Byzantine frescoes, including a striking Christ Pantocrator framed in a mandorla and supported by angels. It’s small and quiet, but big in cultural value.
Church of San Giovanni Evangelista (Italian: Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista)
Tucked at the top of Modica Alta, this church was built on the foundations of a much older, 7th-century church and rewards the uphill walk with one of the best panoramic views over the city (perfect for catching your breath!)
Church of the Carmine (Italian: Chiesa del Carmine)
One of the few buildings that survived the 1693 earthquake, this church features a dramatic 14th-century Gothic portal and houses several notable artworks, including a sculptural Annunciation group and the Pala di Sant’Alberto, dedicated to the Carmelite patron saint of eastern Sicily, both dating back to the 1500s.
Crypt of San Domenico (Italian: Cripta di San Domenico)
Hidden beneath the former Dominican convent (now Modica’s town hall) is this small but eerie crypt, once linked to the Inquisition tribunal. Inside, you’ll find a simple ossuary with skeletal remains and faded frescoes depicting crowned skulls
Tip: Many churches in Modica have a small entrance fee (usually around €2.50), but you can pick up a combined ticket for €6 that covers four key sites: Duomo di San Pietro, Santa Maria di Betlem, San Giovanni Evangelista, and Chiesa del Carmine.
7. Taste the legendary Modica chocolate
You can’t come to Modica without tasting its most famous export: chocolate. But don’t expect anything like what you’d find in a supermarket. Modica chocolate is something entirely different—rustic, gritty, deeply aromatic.
What sets it apart is the method. Cold-processed and minimally refined, this chocolate follows an ancient technique brought from the Americas by the Spanish in the 16th century. The cocoa mass is never heated above 45°C, so the sugar doesn’t melt, giving each bite a uniquely grainy texture that earned it the IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) status.
For the best tasting experience, stop at a few local favourites:
- Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate shop in Sicily (since 1880), and still the most iconic
- Donna Elvira, a pioneer in the bean-to-bar artisanal movement, offering bold blends and single-origin bars
- Caffè dell’Arte, a cozy spot to sip an espresso and sample Modican chocolate alongside other sweet local classics
Tip: to learn more about the local chocolate, the Chocolate Museum inside Palazzo della Cultura (€3 entry) dives into the history, legends, and quirks of Modica’s chocolate tradition, complete with a replica of an 18th-century workshop.
8. Time your visit for a Chocolate Festival
If you’re a true chocolate lover, plan your trip around one of Modica’s chocolate-themed festivals. Every December, usually during the first weekend of the month, Modica hosts ChocoModica, a vibrant three-day event that transforms the historic center into a kind of open-air chocolate lab. You’ll find tastings, chocolate-making demos, live sculptures, themed exhibitions, film screenings, and even chocolate-inspired performances.
If you’re open to a detour, head west in March for the Ciokowine Fest in Alcamo, near Trapani. It’s a great event that brings together Modica’s chocolate and Alcamo’s wines. The pairings are bold, the atmosphere relaxed, and it’s a great excuse to explore another corner of the island.
Tip: Both festivals get busy, so it’s wise to book your accommodation early and check the official programs online for schedules, workshop sign-ups, or limited-entry tastings. Some events are free, while others require a small fee or advance registration.
9. Enjoy the views from Modica’s best viewpoints
One of the best things to do in Modica is simply pausing to take in the scenery. Both Modica Alta and Modica Bassa offer scenic terraces and lookouts where you can admire the baroque rooftops, winding alleys, and grand churches. Here are some of the best spots to soak it all in:
Vanella 139 – 42 (Map): A little off the beaten path, this panoramic terrace sits near some antenna towers atop a hill above the town. Best reached by car or taxi, it rewards you with a stunning, almost surreal view of Modica’s unique “split” shape, revealing layers of stone, rooftops, and churches. For a meal with a view, nearby Monserrato Park has a panoramic restaurant and pizzeria.
Pizzo Belvedere (Map): Arguably Modica’s most iconic lookout, this terrace offers a postcard-perfect view of the Cathedral of San Giorgio, with Corso Umberto I winding through the old town. At night, the scene glows like a nativity set, creating a magical atmosphere.
Strada Campailla (Map): Climb the narrow stairs just beside Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, and you’ll find yourself on this scenic overlook, with an excellent view of the Duomo di San Pietro. It’s a short but steep ascent, and a rewarding one, especially if you bring some chocolate to sweeten the climb!
Ponte Guerrieri (Map): Stretching 550 meters long and rising 137 meters high, this viaduct was until recently Europe’s tallest bridge. It’s another strategic spot to admire Modica’s beauty from above, offering sweeping views that capture the city’s dramatic landscape in all its glory.
Tip: These viewpoints are at their most magical during early morning or sunset, when the stone façades glow.
10. Explore the archeological site of Cava d’Ispica (Italian: Parco Archeologico di Cava d’Ispica)
Only about 10 minutes by car from Modica, Cava d’Ispica is a sprawling canyon packed with history and far fewer crowds than more famous spots. It’s been continuously inhabited from the Bronze Age until the 1600s, so expect anything from caves carved into the rock face to prehistoric tombs and hermitages nestled into the cliffs.
Some highlights to look out for include the Church of San Pancrati, built in the 6th century from massive megalithic blocks, and the Gymnasium, a Hellenistic assembly hall with Greek inscriptions still etched in stone.
Tip: Just a short stroll away is Cavallo d’Ispica, a charming peek into 18th-century rural life. Check out the 1700s water mill (still working with its original Arabic-style mechanism), the miller’s cave-dwelling, and a small museum carved into the rock that houses traditional tools and utensils.
11. Go shopping in Modica Sorda
A couple of kilometers uphill from the baroque beauty of the old town, Modica Sorda is the city’s modern side where locals go for their everyday errands, and where you’ll find shopping centers, supermarkets, and big-name retail chains. No artisan boutiques here (for those, stick to the historic center), but if you need to grab something practical or just want to see where Modicans live their daily lives, this is the place.
The area takes its name from the deaf woman (sorda in Italian) who ran a roadside inn for travelers in the area back in the day.
Tip: If you need a break from shopping, head to Rosy Bar (Map), a local favorite known for gelato and its rich cremolata (a semi-frozen dessert similar to granita but creamier, and packed with fruit).
What to eat and where to eat in Modica
Chocolate gets all the attention in Modica, but the local food scene goes far beyond dessert. Classics to taste include pasta col macco (a creamy fava bean purée folded into fresh pasta, and ‘Mpanatigghi (half-moon-shaped cookies with a mix of almonds, chocolate, cinnamon, and minced beef). And make sure to eat some scacce (stuffed flatbreads filled with things like ricotta and greens, or tomato and onion): they’re so beloved here that locals like to joke it’s why the city’s McDonald’s closed down. Who needs a Big Mac when you’ve got scacce?
For foodies willing to dive deeper in the local food scene, Modica offers some deliciously immersive experiences. Join a street food tour that takes you through artisanal shops and bakeries, tasting your way through local specialties as you go. Or roll up your sleeves in a home cooking class, where you’ll learn to make traditional Modican dishes right in a local’s kitchen. There’s even a workshop dedicated entirely to pasta and tiramisu!
Here’s a very subjective list of places to eat in Modica:
Osteria dei Sapori Perduti – Corso Umberto I, 228/230 – Inside a former noble residence, this much-loved restaurant serves traditional recipes like pasta ccò maccu ri favi (fresh tagliolini with fava bean cream) and milinciani cunzàti (a hearty eggplant parmigiana with tomato, local cheese, and hard-boiled eggs). Very Sicilian!
Fattoria delle Torri – Vico Napolitano, 14 – Elegant dining in a beautifully restored 18th-century palazzo, now run by the daughters of its original founder. The menu blends tradition with creativity, using ingredients sourced from small local producers. In warm weather, ask for a table on the lemon-scented terrace.
A Putia ro vinu – Via Pisacane, 34 – A rustic wine bar with a name that means “the wine shop” in Sicilian dialect. Think home-style comfort food, local wines on tap, and a warm, relaxed atmosphere. Great for a low-key evening with full Modican flavor.
Hemingway – Via Grimaldi, 36 – A quirky local favorite with literary vibes (quotes and photos of the writer line the walls) and an eclectic menu that spans Roman-style pizza to Latin American patacones. The drink list is very interesting, the staff are friendly, and there’s often live music or cultural events.
Makè Pizza – Via Risorgimento, 20 – One of the best pizzas in Modica, worth the trip to Modica Sorda. Choose from classics or go adventurous with toppings like roasted cuttlefish, wild fennel, pine nuts, and raisins. Don’t miss the Cannolina, a sweet pizza topped with ricotta, chocolate shavings, and pistachios. Delivery available.
Orti di San Giorgio – Via Lanteri – A scenic bar tucked into the gardens next to the Cathedral of San Giorgio. The perfect place for a sunset aperitivo with views over Modica’s rooftops and bell towers. It’s ridiculously picturesque!
Caffè Adamo – Via Marchesa Tedeschi, 17 – This is the spot in Modica for granita with brioche.
How to get to Modica
Modica may look like a remote hilltop town carved into stone, but getting here is actually easier than you might think. Here are the main options:
By plane
The nearest airport is Comiso “Pio La Torre”, just 42 km away. From there, you can reach Modica by AST bus, taxi, or a this private transfer (a convenient option particularly if you’re arriving late). Another popular airport to travel to Modica is Catania Fontanarossa, about 120 km away. From there, you can take an AST bus directly to Modica (around 3 hours) or book a this private transfer for a more comfortable ride.
By train
Modica train station is about 10 minutes walk from the center of Modica Bassa. Regional trains connect it with beautiful towns like Ragusa (about 20 mins, €2.40), Noto (about 1 hour, €6.50), and Siracusa (about 1 hour 50 mins, €9.70).
If you’re coming from Catania, you’ll need to change trains in Siracusa, with the whole trip taking roughly 3.5 hours. From Palermo, it’s a longer and more complex journey, about 9 hours and two changes, so if you’re short on time, consider a rental car instead. For schedules and prices, visit the Trenitalia website.
By bus
Modica’s bus station is located near the train station. The AST bus company runs regular routes between Modica and key Sicilian cities like Catania, Siracusa, Palermo, and Trapani, as well as nearby baroque towns like Scicli, Noto, and Ragusa. It’s a great option if you’re traveling locally and don’t want to worry about parking or train schedules.
By car
Driving to Modica is a great option if you’re planning to explore more of southeastern Sicily at your own pace. From Catania, take the A18 motorway toward Ragusa, exit at Rosolini, then follow the SS115 to Modica (about 1 hour 30 mins). From Palermo, follow the A19 toward Enna, then head in the direction of Ragusa (about 3 hours 40 mins).
Modica offers a mix of paid and free parking. A good option is the free parking lot at Piazzale Falcone e Borsellino: it’s convenient and close to many of the town’s main sights.
Where to stay in Modica
The best area to stay in Modica is around the Duomo di San Giorgio, ideally positioned between Modica Alta and Modica Bassa. It places you within walking distance of the city’s main sights—and crucially, spares you the uphill climb back to a hotel in Modica Alta at the end of a long day exploring.
Casa Talía is a truly special place where everything revolves around the view, starting with the name itself (Talía means “look, admire” in Sicilian dialect). This boutique property is made up of charming stone dwellings, each with a private terrace overlooking the old town, all arranged around a lush Mediterranean garden.
For a more casual stay, Il Giardino dei Mandarini is a cozy B&B just a 5-minute walk from the Cathedral, housed in an antique stone building. The spacious rooms have a rustic feel, featuring vintage wooden furniture, tiled floors, and balconies that open onto a private citrus garden.
For families and groups of friends, this historic stone house in the town center can sleep up to 6 guests in three atmospheric rooms, each with its own character. The highlight is the serene walled garden, brimming with greenery and cacti, ideal for outdoor dinners or lounging in the stone hot tub under the stars.
For more options, check out my full guide to the best apartments and hotels in Modica.
Top Travel tips for Visiting Modica
You can see Modica’s main sights in a day, but to really soak up its atmosphere (and sample your way through all the chocolate), two days are ideal. Staying overnight is especially worth it: Modica by night is pure magic, with softly lit churches and quiet alleyways that feel like stepping into a painting. By the way, if you enjoy photography, consider taking this guided photography walk to capture Modica’s enchanting streets from unique angles.
The best time to visit is from late September to late May, when the weather is mild and pleasant, even in winter. Modica involves a lot of walking, often uphill, so it’s best to avoid the sweltering heat of high summer unless you’re used to hot climates.
Finally, if you’re looking for fun things to do in Modica, try this chocolate-making workshop, where you’ll learn the traditional technique and create your own custom bar to take home. Or hop aboard this vintage Fiat 500 for a fun guided tour through the historic center (a stylish way to take in the sights, complete with that unmistakable retro flair!).
5 Best day trips from Modica
A stay in Modica is the perfect springboard to explore this beautiful corner of Sicily, with plenty of day trip options for every interest, from sun-soaked beaches to more ancient ruins.
See more Baroque in the Val di Noto
Modica is part of the Val di Noto, a cluster of towns celebrated by UNESCO for their amazing Baroque architecture. Two must-see neighbours are Noto, known as the “Capital of Baroque” for its elegant golden-hued buildings, and Ragusa, with its striking split between modern Ragusa Superiore and the picturesque Ragusa Ibla. Both towns are easily accessible with Trenitalia trains (around an hour to Noto, 20 minutes to Ragusa). Once there, this walking tour is a great introduction to Noto, or try a 3-hour tour in Ragusa to cover the highlights with a local guide.
Discover the timeless charm of Siracusa
For a deep dive into history, head to Siracusa, once a powerful city of Magna Graecia and today a captivating blend of archaeological wonders and seaside charm. Explore the Greek Theatre, the Roman Amphitheatre, and the island of Ortigia with its elegant piazzas and lively markets. It’s about 1 hour 45 minutes by train from Modica (€9.70 with Trenitalia), or an hour by car. To make the most of your visit, consider this walking tour — this one even includes a traditional lunch.
Visit the real-life settings of Inspector Montalbano
Fans of Italy’s famous Inspector will have a blast tracking down the real-life locations featured in the beloved TV series, many of which are scattered across this part of Sicily. Scicli, for instance, was used as the fictional town of Vigata, while in Punta Secca you can visit Montalbano’s iconic seafront home, and the grand Castello di Donnafugata was the residence of a Mafia boss. Several scenes were also filmed right in Modica, including at Palazzo Polara, the majestic steps of San Giorgio, and the canyon of Cava d’Ispica.
Palazzo Polara
Relax at the beach
If you need a break from the Baroque, head to the coast! Just 15 km from Modica, Marina di Modica offers a wide sandy beach with calm waters and plenty of amenities. You can get there via SAIS bus No. 11 (about 40 minutes). Other nearby options include Maganuco Beach, also sandy and ideal for families thanks to its shallow, clear waters., and Santa Maria del Focallo, a bit further but absolutely worth it—it’s dotted with sand dunes and acacia trees.
Trek Sicily’s fiery Mouth Etna
If you’re more into mountains than beaches, a trip to Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano, is a must. It’s about 2 hours by car from Modica, but it makes for a thrilling day trip if you’re up for an early start. Once there, you can join a guided hike through surreal lava landscapes and panoramic craters, like this one from Rifugio Sapienza on the southern side, or this northern craters excursion departing from Piano Provenzana. Another option is to drive to Siracusa (one hour from Modica) and join a tour from there, like this one that combines Etna trekking with a stop in chic Taormina for a truly epic day.
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